Wine shipping turns into tax maze 
                                Wineries outsourcing 
                                to get product directly to buyers
                              By 
                                KEVIN MCCALLUM
                                THE PRESS DEMOCRAT
                                
                                It's nThe U.S. Supreme Court ruled last year that 
                                states allowing their own wineries to ship directly 
                                to consumers had to allow wineries in other states 
                                to do the same.
                                OAS_AD('Middle'); But the court didn't say they 
                                had to make it easy.
                                
                                Many California wineries are finding that while 
                                they enjoy the right to ship directly to more 
                                states than ever, doing so has never been more 
                                complicated.
                                
                                "It's almost like they were spiteful in making 
                                up these regulations," said David Cumming, 
                                retail manager for Schug Carneros Estate Winery 
                                east of Sonoma.
                                
                                Cumming used to personally handle all the winery's 
                                shipments to its wine club or online customers. 
                                But since last May's court ruling, the changes 
                                to state laws, the complexity of the new rules 
                                and the increased reporting requirements have 
                                put him over the edge.
                                
                                "It just became overwhelming," Cumming 
                                said
                                
                                So Schug did what more and more California wineries 
                                are doing to address the dilemma. It outsourced 
                                its entire direct-shipping operation.
                                
                                New Vine Logistics, the fast-growing direct-shipping 
                                company, has added 60 new wineries or winery groups, 
                                including Schug, to its client list since the 
                                Supreme Court decision, said company president 
                                Kathleen Hoertkorn.
                                
                                The Napa-based company, formed in 2001, expects 
                                to increase its annual revenue from $60 million 
                                last year to $110 to $120 million this year, she 
                                said.
                                
                                The landscape is shifting so quickly that New 
                                Vine Logistics is hosting a direct-shipping conference 
                                this week to keep wineries up to speed on the 
                                changes. 
                                
                                Representatives from several area wineries, as 
                                well as industry groups such as the Wine Institute 
                                in San Francisco and MKF Research in St. Helena, 
                                are scheduled to give presentations at the invitation-only 
                                event Thursday at Cline Cellars.
                                
                                "It has become so difficult to do consumer-direct 
                                legally," Hoertkorn said. "It is 100 
                                times more difficult than it was last year."
                                
                                That's because there are now 27 states that allow 
                                shipment of wine to their residents. The needed 
                                permits require wineries to report and pay taxes 
                                on their shipments on a monthly, quarterly, biannually, 
                                or annual basis.
                                
                                That translates into hundreds of reports annually,Hoertkorn 
                                said, a burden fewer and fewer wineries want to 
                                bear themselves.
                                
                                "It has just mushroomed," she said. 
                                "It's incredible."
                                
                                Free The Grapes, a St. Helena organization that 
                                lobbies for free trade of wine, keeps a close 
                                eye on how states have reacted to the court ruling. 
                                Jeremy Bensen, the group's executive director, 
                                says wineries that expected easy access to new 
                                markets have been disappointed.
                                
                                "A lot of the laws that are being passed 
                                are overly complicated and overly burdensome for 
                                wineries," he said.
                                
                                Powerful wholesalers and their lobbyists pushing 
                                for as many obstacles to direct shipping as possible, 
                                he said. Their latest effort has been to threaten 
                                to strip in-state wineries of their right to self-distribute 
                                wine unless they support bans on direct shipping, 
                                Bensen said.
                                
                                Arizona, for example, recently passed a ban on 
                                direct shipping by wineries that produce more 
                                than 20,000 gallons per year, an arbitrary number 
                                that amounts to about 8,400 cases, Bensen said.
                                
                                "The wholesalers' tactics are shifting, but 
                                they are just as aggressive as before," he 
                                said.
                                
                                Complying with these ever-shifting laws is important 
                                for a winery because the number of states enforcing 
                                their laws is increasing, said Bob Kelso, director 
                                of hospitality for Cline Cellars, at the southern 
                                end of the Sonoma Valley.
                                
                                "In today's age of fulfillment, there's nothing 
                                more exciting than get a letter from some attorney 
                                general from some state saying, 'You've been a 
                                bad boy,'" said Kelso, who is one of the 
                                speakers at the conference.
                                
                                The winery, which has a 250,000-case capacity, 
                                has nearly tripled its direct-to-consumer sales 
                                in the last five years, something Kelso says it 
                                never could have done without outsourcing the 
                                shipping component to New Vine.
                                
                                Tom Shelton, president of Joseph Phelps Vineyards 
                                in St. Helena, says it's unfortunate that wholesalers 
                                continue to fight for restrictive, anti-competitive 
                                laws when the spirit of the Supreme Court ruling 
                                was so clearly in support of free trade.
                                He wishes wineries and wholesalers, who work closely 
                                on other issues, could find a way to resolve their 
                                differences instead of battling each other in 
                                legislatures around the nation.
                                
                                "We need to have a discussion that no one 
                                wants to have, and I guess we're just going to 
                                bloody each other in the ring until somebody gives 
                                up," he said.
                                
                                Meanwhile, fulfillment companies like New Vine 
                                continue to gain new customers. Schug's Cumming 
                                said outsourcing their direct shipping was a great 
                                decision, but it's not a magic bullet that keeps 
                                all bureaucracy at bay.
                                
                                Last week, he wrote a check to the state of New 
                                York for excise taxes. The amount - 57 cents.